In the quietest heart of Castello, between Campo San Martino and the rio (Venetian canal) delle Gorne, runs a fondamenta (canalside walkway) with a singular name: Fondamenta dei Pennini. No patrician families nor saints - here, Tassini tells us, there was a ’spaccio di penini’, that is, a shop selling boiled trotters of lamb and wether, the poor food that Venice bought ready-made from the shops.