Just steps from the Arsenal gates, Campo San Martino is one of Venice’s exceptions: this campo (Venetian square) stretches along the church façade and side, squeezed between two rii (Venetian canals) and - unusually - has no well. For centuries it was the parish of the arsenalotti, caulkers and oar-makers; its piscina (an old stretch of water) and the Fondamenta del Piovan tell of a neighbourhood bound to water and work.