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Hidden corners

El Cagalibri

The monument seen side-on: beneath the coat’s hem protrudes the pile of sculpted books that earned it the nickname
The monument seen side-on: beneath the coat’s hem protrudes the pile of sculpted books that earned it the nickname Photo: Giovanni Dall'Orto, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.5

In the middle of Campo Santo Stefano stands a marble gentleman with a long beard, his arms crossed and a scroll in his hand. The dedication on the pedestal says he is Nicolò Tommaseo — with a single c. But ask anyone what the monument is called and the answer will always be the same: el cagalibri. You only see why by walking round it: at the back, beneath the hem of his coat, juts out a pile of books carved in marble.

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