On Campo San Fantin (a campo is a Venetian square), sober among the houses, opens the Neoclassical façade of Venice’s most famous opera house: La Fenice, born in 1792 from a design by Giannantonio Selva for a society of box-holders that had lost its theatre — and chose the name of the bird that is reborn from its own ashes. A prophecy: La Fenice has burned twice and twice has risen again, in 1837 and in 2003.