Behind the north side of the La Fenice opera house, a tiny paved square opens between Campo San Fantin and the rio della Verona (a Venetian canal). For centuries, it was simply the theatre’s campiello (small square): the street sign still calls it ‘Campiello Marinoni o de la Fenice’, and the old name has stuck. This tucked-away corner, used mainly by artists and theatre workers, holds the memory of two wars.