This bank of the rio dei Tentor (a Venetian canal) — also called the rio della Madonna, after the dye works once found here — lies in the working-class heart of western Dorsoduro, in the parish of Santa Maria Maggiore. It is a neighbourhood where even the place names tell you about local trades: the nearby Fondamenta dei Cereri (a canalside walkway) takes its name from the old shops where candles for churches were made.