In a silent corner of Dorsoduro, overlooking its rio, the church of the Angelo Raffaele - the Anzolo Rafael of the Venetians - is one of the city’s most ancient foundations. Legend numbers it among the eight churches commissioned by St Magnus, bishop of Oderzo, and tells that the archangel appeared to him ordering him to build where he should find many birds joined together: the flock settled on this shore was the sign.