In the quiet campo of Dorsoduro opens what many call Paolo Veronese’s ’Sistine Chapel’: San Sebastiano — ’San Bastian’, the Venetians say — the church of the Girolimini friars which the painter transformed, between 1555 and 1570, into the most extraordinary collective self-portrait of Venetian painting: ceilings, frescoes, organ, presbytery and even the choir doors.