In the middle of the church’s most lavish chapel — red marble, gold, statues and golden clouds — lower your eyes to the floor. There is a dark slab with no coat of arms, no portrait, not a single line of praise: just two Latin words, MANIN CINERES, ’the ashes of the Manins’. Beneath it rests Ludovico Manin, the 120th and last doge of the Serenissima.