Two steps from Piazzale Roma, overlooking its rio - which here is also called ’de le Procuratie’ - survives a church that was one of the richest galleries in Venice: Santa Maria Maggiore, deconsecrated for two centuries. You recognise it by the 15th-century brick bell tower, of pure Venetian Gothic type, and by the simple facade behind which Tullio Lombardo worked between 1500 and 1505.