On Fondamenta Toffetti, opposite the squero (gondola workshop) where gondolas are born, this 16th-century palazzo overlooking the rio di San Trovaso today seems one of the many sober buildings of Dorsoduro. Yet its façade was once an open-air painting: Jacopo Tintoretto covered it with frescoes of four Ovidian fables and a frieze of nude figures, and behind its walls opens one of the largest gardens in Venice.