A bridge of a few steps, a turn, and the din around La Fenice is left behind: the Campiello dei Calegheri (a campiello is a small square) is one of those hidden courtyards where Venice seems to stand still. The name smells of leather: ’calegheri’ are the shoemakers, and here, in the corner between San Fantin and the theatre, the shoe people lived and worked.