Lower your eyes to the paving of the campo (square): the gilded cubes gleaming between the stone slabs are stumbling stones, the Stolpersteine of the German artist Gunter Demnig. He lays them one by one in front of the last house a deported person freely chose, and on each one is a name. In Venice there are now almost two hundred, and the very first was set right here, on 12 January 2014.