On the wall, at the mouth of the sotoportego, there is a plaque in densely packed capitals that almost nobody stops to decipher: ’IN QVESTO CAMPO NELLA CLAVSVRA’. It is a proclamation of 1620: no playing, no brawling, no shouting, no obscene words, no ’commetter disonestà’ (no indecent behaviour), no filth, and even no trees, awnings or ’qualsivoglia altra sorte di robe’ — anything of any other kind.