On the last strip of Cannaregio, where the fondamenta looks out over the open lagoon, stands one of the smallest and most northerly churches in Venice: the Cappuccine, put up between 1614 and 1623 for a convent of Capuchin nuns whose vegetable garden reached down to the water. They dedicated it to three names at once — to Mary Mother of the Redeemer, to St Francis and to St Clare, the rule and its founders in a single little church.